Q145: "Jack, I've got a yellow aircraft P40. No problem with take off it fly's great and I can grease in the landings 9 out of 10 times. The problem is at the end of the landing roll out, the airplane will begin to veer of to one side or the other and no amount of rudder will correct it before it does a complete 180. The toe in is about 2 degrees each wheel. Any suggestions on what I can do to correct this problem. -John"
Jack: "Hi John, I cant really get a handle on what is going on with your P-40 but Id bet you have some axle wheel related problem on the main gear. Check your wheel side clearance on each side of the wheel and make sure you have about .010 clearance on each side and that the axle is not tightening up and becoming shorter during landing. I had this happen to me before on a Corsair with the rotating landing gear. The axle was a allen head bolt that was threaded into the bottom of the strut knuckle. A little locktite and a jam nut on the axle fixed the problem. You have plenty of toe-in and that should make the model track straight and true. The other possibility is a strut turning on landing. Make sure they are mounted solidly as well. Im really guessing here John because I dont know what landing gear you are using but Ill bet you a dollar to a donut that your problem is in the main gear. Hope this helps, Jack Devine"
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Question 146: "Jack I am a member of the Thurston County Miniature Aircraft Association. I recently purchased a 72 Corsair from another member. I am looking to build this model over the winter with many of the modifications that you mention on this web site. Any hints, tips or tricks that you could provide would be most useful. I am looking to smooth out the curve in the wing as much as possible. Thank you in advance. Jason.
Jack: "Hi Jason, Nice to hear from you, Go to RCSCALEBUILDER.com and go into the history section of the Jack Devine Models Forum. Johnny Gajic has a build up of the 72 corsair there and he did a beautiful job on this plane. He added all of the scale detail. Ill give you his email address if you want it and you might be able to contact him as he took a ton of pictures during the build. Kelvin Buck is another guy that did a beautiful job on a Corsair. His is the 85 model but the same techniques apply to both models. He is also on the RCSCALEBUILDER website and his website is linked there. Kelvin is a great modeler and he flies the heck out of that Corsair. Check them out because both guys posted lots of pictures with the descriptions of their work. If you need any other help or advice just let me know. Take care!Jack Devine"
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Question 147: "Hello Jack, I am a long time reader of your column and would like to thank you for all of the Valuable advice. It has been a big help. I was reading the letter from one of the other Top Flight GS Corsair builders who Was having the problem with the tail of the airplane swinging back and forth at Speed. Mine does this also. The pilot who was doing the test flight called it the Corsair Wiggle and that most Corsairs do this. I wouldnt know. My only other Corsair did not last long enough to see it. Any way, your advice on the rudder push rod is noted. This was a huge problem With mine. At full right rudder, you could with very little pressure, push the rudder Back to neutral. Obvious that it would never hold enough right rudder for take off. We fixed the problem by moving the nylon torque rod horn as far out on the threaded Torque rod as it would go. Still it was only 2 full turns but it was enough to make a Difference. My Corsair came in at 20 lbs, plus 3 lbs lead for balance for a total weight of 23 lbs. I am using a US Engines 41 cc engine with a 18-6-10 prop for power and a Futaba Radio for guidance. Robart retracts (who would build a Corsair without putting retracts in?) She had her first flight on 10-8-06. Got a late start so there was only time for one. Test Pilot took her up and trimmed her out, I flew her for a while and the test pilot landed. What A great warbird. Mike"
Jack: "Hi Mike, This is a question that I get asked regularly. Most of the time this condition can be almost completely eliminated with a stouter linkage going to the rudder. Top flight uses the piece of music wire buried in a hole drilled in the leading edge of the rudder. TO eliminate a good portion of the slop I epoxied a brass tube into the hole that just fits over the music wire linkage. This eliminates the slop and is usually easily accomplished on a finished model where you dont even want to think about major surgery to correct a problem. Reinforce the rudder pushrod with braces glued across the inner fuselage so there is no slop in the pushrod. On the giant scale kit that means a minimum of four pushrod mounting cross braces. Stiffening up the pushrod will really add to the stiffness of the rudder. Glue the pushrod to all of the stiffeners and make it as rigid as possible. The other factor that can effect this is the leading edge of the counter balance on the rudder. Make sure that it is shrouded by the rear fin post and that your hinges are solidly mounted and well glued in place. I have inspected many Corsair Models and found rudders that were so sloppy it amazed me that they were able to stay attached in flight.
Mike the most important thing here is to realize that you need a good responsive rudder to fly a Corsair with any kind of precision and the time you spend making it right will really enhance the way it flies. Its without a doubt my favorite airplane and once you get comfortable with one you will be hooked just like the rest of the Corsair drivers out there. With a solid rudder I dont think you will see any wobble in level flight. Good luck! Jack Devine "
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Question 148: "Jack I need your help picking a plane. I have a RCS 215 radial that I have found 3 airplanes that should be a good match. Vailly 101" Seafury, Stuart Mackay 104" FW-190, and Don Smith's 122" P-47. With your flying experience, which of these 3 models, in your opinion, would be the best and easiest to fly? I have flown some byron and others large warbirds, but this would be my first heavy large plane, as I gather these will all be in the mid 30lb range or more when finished. Thanks Doug "
Jack: "Hi Doug. Of the three planes that you mentioned the P-47 will be the easiest of them to fly, The Sea Fury would be a very close second. The FW 190 is not a bad flying plane in any way but it has no where near the same wing area as the Thunderbolt or the Sea Fury. The P-47 has really good effective flaps and will really groove in the air. It is very predictable in flight and is not difficult to land or take off. That radial will spin a very large prop and with the large prop and decent power spinning it right rudder on takeoff becomes mandatory if you want any chance of achieving a straight take off run. All three of these planes have good rudders on them but again the P-47 is the best of the three. Jim Meister has a very nice P-47 offering too.
The good thing about all of your choices is that each offers a very nice fully enclosed cowl and that will aid you greatly in trying to keep those exposed rocker arms on that engine clean. I dont know why RCS decided to build that motor that way as it would have been pretty simple to put covers over the rocker arms and seal up the valve train in that motor. The dirt that the big prop will stir up will have a very adverse effect on that motor. The big radial cowl will help you keep the dirt away from that very expensive motor. Any choice you make will build a great flying plane Doug but in my experience the P-47 is hands down the easiest flying warbird out there, Keep us posted on your final choice and good luck with what sounds like a really great project. Jack Devine "
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Question 149: "I have a Modeltech P-51, 46 size, that keeps nosing over on a "well" groomed grass runway during a takeoff rollout. The CG is dead on. Any tips. Jim"
Jack: "Hi Jim, The problem that you describe is very common with the P-51. Two things I would check here. Make sure the axle of the main landing gear is even or slightly ahead of the leading edge of the wing when the model is level ( like it would be in flight and you are looking straight down at the leading edge of the wing. If the axle on which the wheel is mounted is behind the leading edge even a very little amount this condition will plague you forever. The other possibility is tight wheels that do not roll freely. I’d bet it’s the axle location problem I just described. Let us know if helps you with your problems on landing."
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Question 150: "Excuse me for my bad English I live Réunion island in the Indian Ocean. I wish to know if A-T6 TEXAN (2.50 m of scale with one 62 CC TITAN Zénoah) is able to transfer on the section in the races with the pylons (tight turn or tight curves? People say that it is unable (not possible) and that if it is done, it is unverifiable (it's dangerous) … that is? Indeed I hope to build a A-T6 to take part in races of warbirds. Raymond."
Jack: "Hello Raymond, The AT6 is flown here in the states and raced in many locations. The model version are very stable flying airplanes and the G-62 is the legal sized engine for the AT6 class of racing. Because of the mandatory engine size this type of model racing the racing itself is very competitive. Try the AT6. You will really like this airplane. Good luck"
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Question 151: "I have a Saito 100. I want to put it on Top Flite's Gold Edition Corsair. is it enough power and I am not a speed nut more scale so what is the largest 3 bladed prop you would put on it.. A Graupner 14x7 works very well now on the Hanger 9 60 sized Corsair ARF pretty fast. Nick e.l. Palanza"
Jack: "Hello Nick, The Saito 100 will fly the top flight gold edition Corsair model with authority. It will have plenty of power and the model will perform well with this motor."
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Question 152: "I would like to know if Platt's P51 is a good flyer and performance, I have the semi-kit that a bought in 1994 and I decide to go on. Paulo Coscarelli "
Jack: "Hello Paulo: All of Dave Platt designed models are very accurate airframes. He has been designing model airplanes for many years and has always been considered a respected authority on model airplanes in general. Because of the level of detail that he incorporates into his designs the model can get very heavy very quickly and you need to be aware of that and make every effort to keep things as light as possible. Also keep in mind that the airfoils are scale too and you need to know these planes will fly with scale realism. Use the flaps on all of your landings and the plane will reward you with good landing performance, Good flight performance will follow the careful build that produces a good straight airframe."
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Question 153: "I just finished building Proctor’s Jn 4 jenny and would like to know from experience fliers what she is like in the air, I understand from reading about this aircraft, the real jenny was no lady and don’t expect this model to be one either. Power on the model is the Surpas70 with pump. ….Angel Miniet"
Jack: "Hello Angel. I’ll bet you have a beautiful airplane with the quality of the Proctor kits. I’m not going to be of much assistance here because I have only flown a couple of WWI type biplane aircraft. I know that they are a bit flittery in the air in that they float around and move a lot in the wind. You need to fly with the rudder and coordinate flight control surface inputs to have them maintain altitude in banking maneuvers. They do fly very slow and that’s a big plus on landing but they are sensitive to cross wind and just keep that in mind. I wish you the best of luck with you Jenny. Let us know how the maiden flight goes."
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Question 154: "What’s the upper weight range for a Byron P-47? Is 28-30 pounds stepping beyond the comfort zone and pushing the envelope for good flying characteristics, or does this model handle weight pretty well? I was just wondering about this issue, as I am planning to build/fly one this summer (your old kit, Paul!)….Noah"
Jack: "Hi Noah. As long as you stay under 30 pounds I don’t think you will have any trouble with the Byron P-47. I have one powered with a Sachs 4.2 and it flies beautifully. You just have to make sure you understand the flight envelope with the power that you have on it and don’t attempt to fly it slow without flap support. At high speed the weight really makes them groove and for a big plane the Byron P-47 is a nice airplane to fly. Good luck with your P-47."
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Question 155: "I am a bit curious, I have flown for a few years and built a few kits and I am ready to take on a giant scale plane. Beyond the fun of the building experience, I am looking for a war bird that is easier to fly than not so I have a successful first experience in this type of project. I am currently looking at the Ziroli P47, Ziroli P40 or Ziroli Sky Raider. I see from your responses that you seem to lean towards the P47 in relation to easiest war bird to fly but always seem to reference the Top Flite kit. Does the P47 from the Ziroli line share the same flight characteristics or does your preference stick with the Top Flite line only? You opinion is appreciated…..Michael"
Jack: "Hi Michael, I absolutely stand by my recommendation of the P-47 as a first choice for getting into giant scale Warbirds. The plane design itself is what lends to the validation of my recommendation and although the Top Flight is a great kit the Ziroli offerings as well as the Yellow Aircraft ,Meister Scale, and the two kits that I have in my kit line all get the same positive vote. The P-47 is an easy model to fly and if it’s built correctly and balanced correctly it will provide you with a thrilling model to fly and a solid platform to hone your Warbird skills. It’s kind of funny to think that most of the young pilots in WWII that got assigned to combat units that were flying the P-47 looked at the assignment as punishment because most young aviators wanted the P-51 instead. Once in the cockpit and in the air they found this huge fighter was a real lady in disguise and could get shot to hell and still bring her pilot home. It did that because it was a solid airframe, true in design and the models of this aircraft are just as good as the full scale ones were. My vote and recommendation stays with the P-47. Good luck Michael and welcome to giant scale."
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Question 156: "Hi Jack, Is Carl G. Chipmunk a good trainer for flying warbirds? I'm currently in the final stages of building a top Flight P47 Gold Edition and she's coming a long way now. I've got a 69" Retlas Spitfire fitted with a Saito Fa120s and she's finished and ready to go any time. So I have to admit I'm a warbird lover but the last time I flew my first warbird, a .60 P51, is almost 15 years ago. In the meantime I didn't do anything with this hobby due to circumstances. Last year I picked up the hobby were I left it those years ago and found out that you never forget how to use the radio apart from this little but ow so important thing anticipation and confidence! So I went back to the field with a Calmato sports to master the basics again and now I'm flying the Carl Goldberg Chipmunk with a Saito Fa91. With this latter bird I'm trying to fly the same as I would with a warbird; long wide loops, immelmans etc and concentrate on using the built in flaps (or deliberately not) on landings and using the rudder and throttle effectively leading to very smooth take off and landings with the Chipmunk. That's as far as the real thing goes... The tips and tricks on how to land or take off a warbird, I've read them over and over again and has to be tested for real someday soon. Do you think that the training on the Chipmunk would be a good basis for a maiden some day with the P47 or Spitfire mentioned earlier or will the leap between the two be to great? I just can't wait to fly the P47 or Spitfire and I'm confident or am I just fooling myself with this? I need to get a neutral advice on this one to tip me over I guess. Thanks in advance! Kind regards, Etienne "
Jack: "Hello Etienne, I think your experience with the Chipmunk is great training working your way back into Warbirds and the Chipmunk was used as a primary trainer by many of the British and Canadian pilots that later flew Spitfires in WW II. I think you have been flying a really good transition plane and because it has flaps it will really help you land the P-47 and the Spitfire. My recommendation is to start with the P-47 as it is an easier plane to fly than the Spitfire. Both of these warbirds fly very well but with the narrow landing gear on the spitfire it is very east to ground loop that plane on takeoff runs but you did mention that you are flying with the rudder and that will pay you huge dividends when you put the heavy metal into the air. You will not have the luxury of just cruising around like the Chipmunk will do but with a little higher airspeed I think you will find that the P-37 will be one of the nicest planes you have ever flown. A lot of the full scale pilots that flew them found out very quickly that the big old Jug was a really fine fighter in spite of its enormous size. It will fly heavy but it’s all business and it will track amazingly well in the air, The Top flight kit is a good one and if the plane is balanced correctly I’m sure you can handle the P-47. Once comfortable with the P-47 transition into the Spitfire and you should have two great Warbirds to occupy your flying time. Good luck and let us know how the maiden flight goes! Jack Devine"
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Question 157: "Hi Jack, I have a Ziroli P-61 in the final stages and am concerned about the spoilers; both in travel volume and effectiveness. Do you know how effective they are and what would you recommend regarding the travel volume? The ailerons on this kit are ridiculously small and will not control the airplane at anything less than full speed. Thanks in advance, Jerry"
Jack: "Hi Jerry, I think you hit the nail right on the head here when you are aware of the size of the ailerons. You need the spoilers to bank this airplane and successfully turn it. The recommended throws that Nick Ziroli has on the plans will work well in conjunction with the ailerons and I think you will find that you have a very fast in the groove type Warbird on your hands. Be careful to make sure that you let this model build considerable airspeed on a takeoff run before you touch the elevator. Keep your climb outs shallow until you have good airspeed and it will fly fine. Use the flaps for landing and make sure your nose wheel steering set up is solid before you fly it. It the nose gear linkage malfunctions and that nose wheel turns you will have big problems on landing. Just take the time to get the steering linkage right and you won’t have to deal with that. These planes are show stoppers and most guys will land to watch you fly. It will fly heavy and just don’t expect this plane to perform like a P-51. It won’t do that and focusing on what type of flight it is capable of will reward you with many flights and seasons on a really nice Warbird. High speed low passes will make the hair on the back of your neck stand up as they are a thrill a second and that plane can cover a lot of ground in a very short amount of time. Get your engines set up well before you fly it and be very careful how you store this model. Keep the clunks in the fuel tanks where they should be and don’t store the model on it’s nose leaning up against a wall in your hanger space. The clunks will fall forward and the fuel hose in the tank will harden after a winters storage and the plane will run very well on the ground with full fuel tanks and the minute you try and fly you will loose one or both engines due to fuel starvation and low and slow you will have a big problem. Check the fuel tanks often and store the plane level and you should be just fine. Once in the air and up to speed the fun really begins. I wish you good luck and hope to hear back when you complete the maiden flight. Jack Devine"
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Question 158: "I have a Midwest AT-6. She will have flaps, robart retracts (air) & struts, glassed finish, heated glow, 6volt receiver battery and standard size servos (futaba and hitec). I require that the motor be inside the cowl as much as possible. I dont require speed but more scale performance.. (scale person). More than likely will be mounted inverted. I require the best ease of starting ,dependability, low idle, swing as scale prop as possible. I hope to put a Saito 150 or YS 140 in her.. what are the pros and cons of each? OR do you have a better suggestion? Thanks, Nick e.l. Palanza"
Jack: "Hello Nick, The Midwest kit builds a fine model of the AT-6 and you will really be happy you are building it with flaps. Without flaps this plane is difficult to slow down and when airspeeds are high during touchdown this plane will porpoise violently with increasingly higher bounces and then stall with bad results. The flaps will cut the airspeed back considerably and allow you to set the model down and it will stay on the main gear with little or no bounce. Stay off of the elevator and do not force the tail down. Let it bleed off the airspeed and the tail will settle on it's own.
The rudder steering will be good as long as the tail plane is flying. Both of your engine choices should serve this plane well. Both of them will make good power and they are both capable of pulling this plane with authority. The YS is definitely the more powerful motor but I don't think you will have any problems with either choice. This is a very nice plane to fly it's just a bit tricky to land. Once you get the technique you should have many years of good flying to look forward too. Let us know how the maiden goes. Jack"
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Question 159: "Please forgive me for asking again, but where is the CG on the Giant Scale Corsair, NWHT now JDM? I spent 2 years building mine, then dumb-thumbed it on the 34th flight and now have it ready to start and taxi again. Larry"
Jack: "Hello Larry. The CG location on your Corsair is 5 3/8—5 7/16 inches back from the leading edge of the wing at the center of the wing. I’m happy that you decided to rebuild it. Larry. I’m sure it will fly very well again. Jack Devine"
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