193: "Hello Joe- I stumbled onto your wonderful webpage
and found several builders of your club(?) that have beautiful Zero models. I
want to build a flying replica (about 30' wingspan) of this airplane. I have built
several all metal RV's in the past. My problem is finding some good, detailed
plans for this project. It seems there are very few accurate details available...especially
from Japan. I guess they think it's still a first class fighter. Can you give
me some leads on whom to contact for drawings, details or just advice on building
this airplane? I probably could offset it from some model plans if it was necessary.
Please help me if you can by asking around to the ones that know (if you
aren't one of them) or giving me email addresses of those that might help. Thanks
a million for your help. Jim "
Joe: "Jim I would Probably Start with Nick Zirolis Zero plans as he usually does
some fairly scale planes. http://www.ziroliplans.com/a6m5-doss.html His planes work great for enlarging and staying structurally strong due to al
the longitudal stringers he uses in the fuse. Another resource would be J aircraft.com http://www.j-aircraft.com/ it is a website dedicated to Japanese aircraft with message boards and research
stuff. other than that thats about all the help I can give you on japanese stuff"
Readers Comments: " Joe, I have really enjoyed reading your articles. I especially enjoy your
techniques on glassing with Deft products. One small technical error in your terminology
has caused several people to ask unnecessary questions and be confused about some
of the products you use. Deft Clear Wood Finish is a lacquer not a Polyurethane.
Calling it a lacquer based Poly U is incorrect. It is a nitrocellulose lacquer
and has nothing to do with Polyurethane.(They both are types of varnishes) Deft
does have a Polyurethane product called Defthane. I have use both these products
and have enjoyed both of them, but they are totally a different product. I am
not trying to dis you or anything, I just want you to realize that Polyurethane
is not lacquer based. Thanks again for your articles and knowledge with warbirds,
I can't wait to try some of your techniques. Sincerely, Steve"
194: "Sir: I was a Field Arty. Liaison Pilot, 21 mos.
in the So. Pac. Flying L-4H's and a rebuilt wrecked L-5 (my personal plane). I
have ample pictures of both planes but would like to buy scale models RC's and
personalize them the same as the originals I flew. I have found them in 7 ft.
models but must have something smaller, say, 3-4 feet max. I also find plans at
$68.00 - too high! Do you know any source of plans or models that meet my admittedly
narrow needs? If so, I would be most grateful for your help. Thank you very much.
(I was a 1st Lt. for WW II, and was in the Nat'l. Guard during Korea, but was
a Major by then so stayed at home 'tho other unit went overseas; all Captains
or lower.) "
Joe: "Hmm not sure on that small of a plane but the one I know about is from Model
airplane news http://www.modelairplanenews.com/plan/fsp0401a.asp
its a 55" ws sport version and electric but shouldnt be hard to convert.
I would also try RCM Plans http://www.rcmmagazine.com/e/env/0001KgBz8kRloIUTU41P3v1/store/store-plans.html?link=/store/store-plans-alpha.html If I remember correctly they used to have a nice scale version. the only other
thing I can think of would be to get a larger scale and just shrink it down. I
know Roy Vaillencourt has a very nice L5 Joseph Huntley''
195: "joe i have the great planes p40e warhawk and
i,am too the point were i,am putting on the canopy and hinges for the flaps what
is the best way to do this and also a good way to paint the canopy, also i brought
bob dively i 126 cockpit kit and i don"t know how to fit inyo the cockpit
aera. i been building for about 4years now , so i hope you can help me with this.
thank you. bob"
Joe: "Hi Bob not sure how to explain it all but will do my best. For the canopy
you need to slowly trim it down until it is close to fitting and then using some
180 grit sandpaper sand it to its final fit. Now some guys use canopy glue to
glue their canopies on but I like to use paintable silicone kinda like you get
for bathrooms. The reason being once glued it is a pain to remove but with the
silicone you can just slide your hobby knife between the sheet and plane and just
slice it off easy. As for your cockpit kit you are going to have to build it in
sections IE right wall then left wall etc and mount them in the plane a piece
at a time. for the flap hinges you can use any number of method for that. With
a plane that small CA hinges will work or you can use small hingepints (directions
usually on the package) to hinge them. Hope this helps. Joseph Huntley"
196: "joe iwould like to build a bomber so what do
you thank of hobbie barn kits MARUAKA are they easy to build and dose everything
come in the kit . i don,t want a large wingspan that why i was looking at hobbiebarn
thank you for your time an information. bon "
Joe: "Bon if I remember correctly the Maruka kits are the old royal kits. I am
not for sure on that but thats what I have heard. I have never seen one but there
are a lot of people building them. as for contents I would imagine they have the
standard kit stuff like all the wood you need plus a bunch of abs parts for cowls
etc and some hardwood and hardware. leaving you to purchase fuel tanks pushrods
engines and wheels, Joseph Huntley"
197: "Whats the best way to do rib stiching?? Im building
a Mick Reeves 1/4 scale Sopwith Camel and could use some help. Whats the best
way to do documentation? What are the judges looking for? And awhile back you
help me figure out how to do the slip flaps on a BF109(Dave Platt) you mention
a book that would help me on it. You even sent me pics of your Hurricane. (It
was some kind of building technique book...the article also showed how to make
a corsair wings fold and how to do the linkage) Can you please tell me the name
of the book and where I can get it? Thanks, Jim"
Joe: "Hi Jim well lets start wit Rib Stitching. I have not gone that far with
detailing WWI planes yet But dont dismay I have my fav ref site for techniques
I will share with you. It is call the Cub Den http://geocities.com/cubmanky/main.html he has a lot of good how to's and some very detailed instructions on rib stitching
and pinking tapes.
As for the book I mentioned it is called "Control
Systems by Jim Newman" Air age puts it out and you can get it through Model
Airplane News. Most Hobby shops sell those how to books that model airplane news
puts out just ask your local he can prob order it for you mine was like 7 bucks.
it is silver cover with pictures of torque tube system on the front.
As for documentation the best way is to get it all ready before you begin to build
:0) but there are several ways to do it mostly it is trial and error. By that
I mean you can get everything organized and think its good but after a scale event
the judges find flaws so you fix it for the next time and ya keep doing it that
way until the judges stop nitpicking it. but as for the best way to start with
your docs the scale masters has a general guide with examples to go by. you can
find it here http://www.scalemasters.org/docs/index.html Also we have a discussion going on rcscalebuilder http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=21 there are several major competitors like jeff whitney, pat mc curry and earl aune
that give their inputs it would be the place to get it right from the guys that
have used their docs to their advantage Joseph Huntley"
198: "Hey Joe, I am fiberglassing a TF giant P-51 using
your metho, .do I fiberglass control surfaces? do I need to leave more of a gap
for the fiberglassing to wrap around these areas? thanks Mike "
Joe: "Hi Mike no I dont glass the control surfaces as they were fabric and I want
the fabric look. Also I have never tried it thinking that the fabric flexes some
that with clear on top it may have a tendency to crack. as for the gap I usually
dont cover or finish my control surfaces until everything is glassed to make sure
the height etc is all matched but you shouldnt have to leave a gap anyways because
it will just move the TE of the control surface back a hair Joseph Huntley"
199: "hello there Joe, My name is Allen House, I'm
building a Vailly 1/5 Hawker Typhoon. I have a cockpit kit from Dynamic Balsa,
and a pilot from Blue box Hobbies. Where can I find a scale English seat harness
for my model? Thanks for your time, Allen."
Joe: "Hi Allen I dont know of any seat harnesses out there. the best advice I
can give is to find all the reference pics you can and make your own a good material
for that would be either shoelaces or that streatchy you can get in the fabric
department dont know what they call it but its white and abt 1/8" wide "
200: "I was directed to your website from rcuniverse.com
with a question pertaining to servo installations in foam core wings. I
am building a Ziroli 94" P40E Kittyhawk and have foam core wings that are
already obeche covered. I have never built a foam-core wing plane before and cannot
figure out how I will run the servo leads to the servos. Do
i just cut a channel out of the wing for the leads and fill it back in once they
are placed? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated."
Joe: "Hi Ben Sorry cant help you here but i dont touch foam for me its a pain
to work with and i have found that all built up planes are alighter than composite
and foam. But my friend Todd Burley can probably help you out here. Hes currently
working on a PCM 109 and works with foam a lot. You can see his thread here http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=464&PN=1 in it
he shows his construction and i am almost positive he has pics of him doing his
servo trays in the foam wing. You can also contact him from there for more questions
201: "In the early '80's I received informaton from
Gary K Lavarack regarding an "All Aluminum 1/4 relica scale P 51 D. The company
was called 1/4 Scale Warbirds. Do you know where I might get in touch with Mr.
Lavarack or the company these may have gone to. Any
help would be greatly appreciated!Edward"
Joe: "Sorry Edward I havent heard of them, but maybe one of our readers has and
will see this and let me know the info so I can post it here for you"
202: "Hi Joe, I just bought a partial built Ziroli
Corsair. The wing is about 85% complete with no flaps. Can I make it have flaps
now. Just the top is sheeted. Also I would like to make the cockpit full size.
Any ideas to that? Noticed on the tail assembly that the elevators is not lined
up to each other on each side. And they are already glued and set. What should
I do about that? The rudder is also not squared to the elevators but I know how
to fix that. What type of retracts would you recommend? And last but not least,
how should I finish it off? (ex) glass or covertite , colors. Will be putting
in a G62 . Hope that will be good. Thanks Jim Halpin"
Joe: "Hi Jim yea you can still do the flaps it will just be a liitle more of a
hassle cutting through the ribs but the good part is that they will already be
partially built. as for the cockpit I would make sure fuse built and sheeted then
get in there with a dremel and start grinding away some of the former in the cocklpit
area. as for the tail assembly you weill have to remove it and redo the alognment
or cut the connection off and hook each elev half up to servos seperate which
a lot of people do. I am not totally sure on the corsair I think it might depend
on the version whether it was metal or fabric covered I would sheet the whole
thing and glass and paint it if it was up to me. then use solartex for doing the
control surfaces but you would just need to check your documentation as i am not
too familiar with the corsair having no interest in building one i just never
researched it much. Joseph Huntley"
203: "Hey Joe, I would love to see some info on making
the perfect wing fillet and saddle for a good fit between wing and fuse. Thanks
Joe: "Mark The one I know of that has done an excellent job lately documenting
his build is Tom Pierce. Heres a link to his wing fairing article http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/html/building/finwingas.htm
204: "Hi Joe. I picked up an old, incomplete Fliteglass
P51 at a yard sale. It's missing the canopy, bottom half of the 2 piece nose section
and the under wing air scoop. I think I can make the scoop & nose section
myself. Any ideas what I can do about the canopy? Any idea if a canopy from another
kit would fit? I'd love to get this plane in the air so any help/advice is most
Joe: "Hi Jim, I would measure the kit fuse length and width and wing length and
for chord then look around at some of available plans out there and find one close
and use that. You can also take the measurements and a couple pic and post on
RcScalebuilder.com and RCUniverse and see if someone can identify the kit for
you, Joseph Huntley "
205: "Hi Joe I've got a 1/7th scale MkIX (Top flite
gold edition) spitfire and have just got round to installing the air tank for
the retracts. Have you got a quick and easy way of securing the tank in the fuse.
Space is a bit of a premium in the spit. Thanks in advance Dave"
Joe: "Hi David a quick way to do it is to use some silicone and silicone it in
place. I usually do that cause its quick and easy and works pretty well. Joseph
206: "Joe I enjoy reading your articles they have helped
me lot. Right now I am re building a broken P40 Warhawk It has a 60" wing
span the problem is I can not find any info on where the CG is, if you could help
I would appreciate it thank you."
Joe: "Brian Scale Aero has an online CG calculator thats pretty good just input
a few numbers and bam you have your cg starting point http://scaleaero.com/CG_Calculator.htm
207: "Joe, I'm building my first plane and was wondering
if it is necessary to close in the wheel wells on the wing for planes fitted with
retracts? What will happen if they are not? Thanks,
Joe: "Andrew I would try to close it in as best you can. there are a few "cheap"
easy ways to do it. go get you some posterboard then make a strip as wide as your
well is deep then just roll it up a little and drop it in the well and let it
expand then just glue in place. another method is to use some 1/16 balsa and make
a ring with that with the grain running top to bottom of your wheel well and glue
that in place. The reason you want to close the well off is so that when flying
you dont get a lot of drag with the air rushing into the wing. another reason
is all the dirt dust grass what have you on take off and landing will blow inside
the wing and could get built up on your control surfaces causeing problems in
flight. Joseph Huntley"
208: "Hello Joe, I came across some plans for a Grumman
E-2C Hawkeye. Since I had worked for Grumman in the 70's and 80's I thought that
this would be a good plane to build. The scale of the plane is 1/12 at a wing
span of 60". Could you please tell me what must be done to increase the overall
scale to 1/6th, and what is required to actually create an airframe that is truly
sturdy and light? Thanks, Lew "
Joe: "Hi Lew believe it or not I just finished a new tutorial on this on my website.
You can find it on this page
http://home.mchsi.com/~jahuntley/modelling101.html I am going to be designing one hopefully soon as there is a guy on rcscalebuilder.com
that just posted his grandad has several grumman drawings direct from grumman
themself from back in the 70's so I waiting on a copy. you can see the thread
here and possibly ask for a copy for your reference
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1124&TPN=1 Just be sure and find what the actual ws was and divide by 6 to get a more accurate
scale size for it. Joseph Huntley"
209: "Im finishing up Topflight P-40, and would like
to use a more scale spinner and prop for flying. Is there a manufacturer out ther
that has these items? I also would like to know if the Topflight spinner that
is availabe would work with a 3 bladed prop for flight? Just one more question,
what would be the right size prop (3 blade) if I am putting a Supertiger .60 in
the warhawk. Thank you in advance.
Joe: "hi robert, as far as manufacturers for scale spinners I cant help you there
as I dont know the sources for small stuff. if there is one avail at top flight
yes it should be able to be used for flying and I would recommend a 10x8 as a
starting point for your prop size with that engine Joseph Huntley"
210: "I seem to remember a post of yours giving a site
where various minature plastic products are sold... tubing, channels and such....could
you please drop me a note as to who it is.... also, i am looking for a source
for brass tubing, alum. sheeting (thin) and such... thanks a lot! johnny "
Joe: "Johnny the site I believe was the Plastistruct home page http://www.plastruct.com/ as for brass tubing sheets etc I goto my local hardware
store they have a better variety and cheaper than your LHS Joseph
211: "Joe, Any help would be greatly appreciated. I
just got a Hangar 9 Corsair. I just finished putting it together. I am looking
for a scale 3 blade propeller and some tips to "dress it up". This is
going into our game-room. Richard Riverside, California"
Joe: "Richard I am not sure of the size but the only static that I know of off
hand would be for the top flight models http://www.top-flite.com/accys/topq7908.html you might start there and check the scale sizes to see if they match or not. as
for dressing it up just check your research to see what needs to be fixed up from
what the static kit has."
Question 212: "Hello, I don't know if you're the right person to answer my question.
I'm building the Zirolli Stuka. But I want to have the famous Stuka
siren on it. The Stuka siren was a mechanical siren feeded by a small
propellor who stands on the weelleg.
The feeding is not a problem at all. The system of the siren is one.
Can you say me how I can do it, or is it better with a electrical siren? Thanks WWII greets from Mathieu off Belgium"
for the delay Mathieu been a little busy. the product I reommend is
called the air screamer you can find them here http://www.i4cproducts.com/ the speed of the diving plane makes it sound like a stuka. matter of
fact thats what it was designed for then you can make the littke prop
on the LG fairing for good looks Joseph
Huntley US Scale Masters Midwest Regional Manager"
Question 213: "Hello Joe, If you would be so kind, I'd like to get an address,
phone number for someone that stocks small piano type hinges. I've seen
Pat McCurry use these on his 109's. He says this was the design of the
full scale airplane. My canopy is already finished, but I'd do the hinging
over to get a scale type hinge. Thanks again for your help. John."
the best place to get those and other cool stuff is nelson hobbies http://www.nelsonhobby.com/ but he closed til after the holiday as he went to texas and was
gonna do the scale masters qualifier but jerry has the hinges you looking
for. Joseph Huntley"
Question 214: "Hi, I am searching for a r/c C-123 Provider made by Fairchild.
My father was shot down in one during the Vietnam war and today he is
still missing. Thus the reason for wanting to build one.Can someone
the only person I know does one is Dan Palmer http://www.mag-web.com/rc-modeler/palmer/product.html . Joseph Huntley"
Question 215: "I am building a Vailly 1/5th scale Typhoon. Can you give me some
ideas on installing a door closing system for the inner wheel well doors.
(air, servo, mechanical?) My retracts are air operated. Also, do you
know of any scale 3 blade flying prop (24x10 - Brisson 5.8) thanks,Wayne
Wayne not sure on the typhoon but the jet guys have really good door
sequencing and closing stuff if I have something that i want to trick
out cool with the gear doors I goto the jet guys so check with century
jet and others on their gear door sequencing stuff. you can also do
normal door closing by installing feeler whires so as your gear come
up the strut hits the wires which pull the doors closed. also for an
assortment of 3 and 4 blade flying props try Desert Aircraft they have
a huge selection of large 2,3 and 4 blade props http://www.desertaircraft.com/"
Question 216: "Joe I'm building the Top Flite P-47 giant scale plane for my buddy.
It's in honor of his dad who flew one in WW II. This is my first giant
warbird to build and it's been going great, but( and of course there
is always a but) I'm at the point of doing the flaps, and I'm a little
scared. The booklet doesn't seem to explain it to well or it might,
and I just can't understand it, again this my first warbird to build.
Can you offer me any help or sites that could help. Thanks Wes "
I would say go to http://www.rcscalebuilder.com it is the number 1 site for help on
construction. Of course thats after this site but the reason I like
to point people there is because hundreds of SCALE modellers use that
site and there are thousands of construction photos showing what you
need to be able to see to understand including on your flaps. Joe"